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Coolant electric flow pump running continuosly

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Mckenzy Wolf Avatar
Mckenzy Wolf Wilfredo Ruiz
Clover, South Carolina, USA   USA
Hello to all:

I have a 1991 Corrado with a VR6 engine installed. My cousin had told me that he always had a dead battery every morning and he did not know why. I dug in and noticed the coolant recirculating pump was running continuously with the car off and the key removed. I disconnected the motor, it would stop, reconnected the motor it starts to run again. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it and the pump would remain off until I turn the key on and off. So I notice that if left the battery connected and just disconnect the small connector on the coolant module control and it reset itself. I believe it might be the problem but I wanted to check with all you guys for some real knowledge. UPDATE@@@@@ I installed a new control module and it still does the same thing, at this point I am stumped. I will start looking at the wire manual but I could sure use some help.



Thanks upfront for any help.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2013-10-29 08:18 PM by Mckenzy Wolf.

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Mckenzy Wolf Avatar
Mckenzy Wolf Wilfredo Ruiz
Clover, South Carolina, USA   USA
Hello to all:

I also have another question in relation to this water pump issue. I purchase the new module but it only has a fuse bar on top and not regular fuses like the old one, I also noted that the old unit had a short harness adaptor to hook the harness to the small connector on the module. I was able to remove this adapter and the unit connects fins, however i do not know the side effects of utilizing a control module that is not similar to the unit installed. I will post the pictures on line to show the difference. I just want to make sure that it's the correct module.

I did used it for a short time and i just turned the key on and off and the pump remains running. My next thing will be to sit and time the motor to see if the control module release it and turns it off. Another thing i noticed is that my fans where not working. I did a by pass test on the fan and it works on all 3 speeds so i know the wire harness and fan works good.

After all this the only thing i am not sure is at what temperature does the cooling fan would be expected to come on and also if the aux water pump is supposed to run for a predetermine time how long it does before it shuts down,

The reason i ask is because I am not sure about the module interation between the power source the fans and pump and the thermostat. I can only speculate that the aux pump runs continuosly and the fans turn on at a temperature preset.

I definetly use some help on this. the reason being is i confirm that the pump is killing the battery overnight. so i charged the battery and disconnected the module and the battery was good the next day. I also notice that if i pull the small connector from the module and connect it back the pump would remain off and the next day the battery was good.


Thanks for at least viewing my post, any help will be most welcome.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2013-11-15 08:45 AM by Mckenzy Wolf.

14GPDJENGINEERING Avatar
Silver Spring, MD, USA   USA
Wilfredo,

There was a recall for the heater core that installed a timer to run the aux pump for a fixed time.

Is the temp switch in the radiator working? My Bentley has questionable temps for the fans, but should come on about 200F & increase at about 215F.

How about the sensors on the thermostat housing?

There are some real experts on the Yahoo group at corradolist@yahoogroups.com

Dennis
'93 SLC

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Mckenzy Wolf Avatar
Mckenzy Wolf Wilfredo Ruiz
Clover, South Carolina, USA   USA
Dennis:

You are right, you just beat me to the punch. yesterday i did a series of tests.
First I ran the engine at idle until it warmed up. closed to 200 degrees the fans kicked in and after runing some time the temp went down as expected. the next test was shutting the car off and time the pump. The pump ran for 8 minutes and it shut off. I also tested the temp sensor and that is working as well. placed my laser temp gun and it is fairly close to the actual reading on my dash.

I also checked the input and outputs of the coolant control module with my meter and it is working as advertised. I believe i was barking at the wrong tree. My main problem is that the Battery runs dead if i leave it connected overnight and i was thinking that the aux pump was running continuously.

I realized my mistake and now i have to go back to the drawing board and see what else could be causing the problem.

Thank you Dennis for your help, God knows I need all the help I can get since its my first time with a corrado.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2013-12-03 09:53 AM by Mckenzy Wolf.


Attachments:
coolant control module.JPG    33 KB
coolant control module.JPG

tahnos Thomas Andrews
Longmont, CO, USA   USA
I hate open circuits... I always start at the source and follow wires till they bleed me dry. The easiest it to follow when the car is off and keys are out, just keep putting a test light on things The radios clock should always have power to it and thats about it. If its an old battery or one thats gone dead allot even just that small amount of current can drain it dead. It would start by taking your battery in to see if its still good.

Mckenzy Wolf Avatar
Mckenzy Wolf Wilfredo Ruiz
Clover, South Carolina, USA   USA
I am back with more information. As I was replacing my headlights with a set of angel eyes I noted my fog lights where not working. so I check power with my meter and I almost burnt my finger tips because the wires where shorting when I placed the meter on them and after that I cut the wires and heat shrink them. routed a new set of wires and I have not had any more battery draining problems, Also I replace the old battery before this happen because the battery would drain fairly fast and I do believe its been subject to the vampiric drain far too long.
I got a sealed battery and it works fantastic. After that wire short I stumbled now my drain is at only. 0.152. I know that there still a drain somewhere but not as heave as it used to. I know the recommended draw is 0.050 which is enough to keep the memory on your ECM and your radio memory. So I decide to continue to check for drains. I was pulling one fuse at a time and I did find that my draw drops to 0.050 when I pulled the interior courtesy light fuse.

so I go and check all the lights that are attached to this fuse.

1. Passenger mirror light on the visor. - checked and it was functioning as advertised.
2. Dome light - no light bulb there so I installed new bulb - check and working
3. Cigarette lighter - disconnected and no change, I did replace the lighter since the old one was extremely corroded and damaged.
4. trunk light - checked and fully functional.
5. Glove box light - none there since it was missing the entire assembly, so I purchase and installed.
6. Map light - no light bulb there so I installed new bulb - check good.

its frustrating. I take the fuse out and it drops to 0.050 for draw on the battery I plug it back and it goes to 0.152 I know is less than an amp but still a draw. the funny thing is I took each bulb out and it does not change, I starting to thing something else is tied to this circuit and its not in the manual because it was something somebody did .

Because the battery has not died I decided to leave it alone since I already found another circuit in then fog lights, that was shorted ad i replaced it i am not sweating this one so much.

if i do come across a fix i will post it but for now the system is working good.

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